PINE DINING TABLE
Truing your rough-sawn lumber makes the difference.
SHOP OWNER: Stephen Yale
LOCATION: Southport, CT
I built this dining room table for my youngest son and his wife. The wood is rough pine I bought from a local sawmill for fifty dollars. The original design idea was for a table with a solid top but because their dining room is small, I decided to build one with leaves. The basic table is 3' wide by 4' long. There are two 12" wide leaves, which when added expands the table to 6' long. They use wooden dowels for alignment and homemade metal levelers. The wooden table extensions came from Rockler.
The legs are three pieces of face-glued pine. I tapered the legs on the jointer and the half circle cutouts roughed out on a band saw and finished by using an oscillating spindle sander. They attach to the aprons using steel corner braces and hanger bolts.
The top is made of 4" wide boards that are edge glued. Metal brackets between the tabletop and the aprons hold the top down. I was not too concerned about expansion, as the widest glued up piece is 24" wide and the table is finished and sealed on all sides.
I made the half round molding for the apron using a router table and a table saw. To simulate the black spike heads on the legs, I used wood caps and painted them black. The real interesting part of this project was taking the rough-sawn lumber from the mill, jointing, and surface planing it to come up with finished boards that were true. It made a big difference in the assembly.
The finish is Minwax Aged Oak Gel Stain, which really works great on pine and prevented blotching. I followed this with four coats of Minwax wipe-on polyurethane, sanding between coats. They are very happy with the table but now I will also need to build the chairs.. . . Stephen Yale
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