Early Version

Continuous improvements make this a useful tool in the shop.

SHOP OWNER: Mike Kelly

    These are pictures of a router table I built a few years ago and have modified over time. I used John McPherson's book, "Build Your Own Router Tables",  as a guide. I modified his design to fit what I thought I wanted in a router table.
Latest Version

    In the beginning, the only dust collection was in the fence. I recently purchased and installed an Oneida dust collection system. Now there is an added four-inch port in the rear of the cabinet plus the three-inch reduced to one and a half-inch port for the fence. I also recently switched to a Precision Router Lift insert and a Porter Cable fixed base router. Originally I was using the Woodhaven insert so the Precision Router Lift dropped right in.
Latest Version

    The case is constructed out of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. The top consists of two layers of the plywood with screw inserts holding them together. The power cord is routed along the top of the bottom layer. Any one of four power switches will turn the motor on or off. I use a foot switch to start and stop the router. This allows me to use both hands to hold on firmly and not have to fumble for the switch when beginning or ending a cut. Latest Version
Bit Storage

    The drawers were made using 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood with dovetail construction. I used walnut for the drawer pulls and the edging around the tabletop. The edging is only glued to the upper piece of plywood in case I screw up the top and need to replace it. The top is covered with a light beige Formica laminate. The table height is 42", which works well for me. The cabinet rolls on four-inch rubber castors that lock. Most of the time I leave them unlocked. The cabinet is so heavy it stays put.

. . . Mike Kelly



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P.O. Box 493
Springtown, PA 18081