[This information is not affiliated with Robland or Laguna Tools.
The information presented here is in no way guaranteed to be accurate or
current. Feel free to call Laguna Technical Support for another
opinion. The following procedure worked for me.]
The included instructions for the above kit are not entirely helpful,
hopefully this file will help you through the installation. Please refer to the
Parts and Design
The micro-adjust kit sold for the X31 consists of a pair of black brackets
and "floating" blocks. The brackets are attached to the X31
side panels and the blocks adjust the sliding rail system in all directions.
Your first challenge will be to simply visualize the concept of how this
system was intended to work. It is not a common U.S. design, but I have
seen it on a few other European machines (my Italian bandsaw for
instance). The system relies on a set screw and two nuts, with one nut on
either side of a bracket.
Use of Robland X-31 Micro Adjusters
Installation of the micro adjusters (i.e., what goes where) is pretty
straightforward but how to use them is not. In light of the paucity of the
included directions, this file describes one opinion on how to set up and use
the adjustment features. Before continuing, the reader will get much more out
of this document if you have the micro-adjust kit in front of you or study the
above photo. Reading this document without that benefit is confusing at best.
Before beginning, I do not know if Laguna Tools Tech Support would recommend
my method when asked how to use the adjustment feature. It should be noted that
in at least one conversation, Laguna Tools personnel said the proper use
was to Loctite the four allen bolts into the solid block and then use the nuts
to adjust the block up or down. I do not subscribe to this theory, it does not
make sense (to me) that this method was the true design intent. My opinion on
the design is listed below. I cannot comment on the validity or soundness of
one method over the other, as I've only done what is described below and it
worked for me. You obviously are responsible to pick whatever method makes
sense to you.
In my opinion and in my use, the way the adjustment feature works is that
the four allen bolts that have the nuts on either side of the bracket are
supposed to pull the solid block one way or another when turned - they are
not supposed to move (substantially) themselves in relation to the
bracket housing. This is achieved by the proper nut not allowing the allen bolt
to move "through" the bracket housing - the nut will
however allow the allen bolt to turn, thus screwing into or
out of the solid block, meaning the solid block will move since
the allen bolt is more or less "stationary".
Think of it this way - once a nut is tightened against the bracket housing,
the nut and the allen bolt become an "assembly", in that the nut is a
"stopper" that turns with the allen bolt and won't allow the allen
bolt to move through the bracket - but the whole "assembly" turns and
thus makes the solid block move. Or, an analogy - think of tightening a bolt on
the top side of some stationary bracket that has something beneath it. The bolt
head sits on the bracket (via gravity) and rotates, and whatever is below it
moves "up" to meet the bracket. The same principle applies with the
Start by screwing all eight allen bolts into the solid block a decent
amount, maybe 1/3" or so. You only need to set up the assembly (meaning
with all eight allen bolts in 1/3" and making original, gross adjustments
via the rail holding brackets and their two bolts) within about 1/4" to
1/3" or so of the "final" destination - the allen bolts can
adjust it the rest of the way. To move the solid block up, make sure the top
nut is tight against the bracket housing, the bottom nut is "loose",
and screw the allen bolt "out". This will cause the allen bolt and
top nut to turn together - not moving the allen bolt through the bracket
housing, but causing the block to move up as the allen bolt "screws out
of" the solid block. The reverse, using the bottom nut, will cause the
block to move down. Remember, when you're "using" the top nut, make
sure the bottom nut is loose, and vice versa. With the two allen bolts on each
side of the solid block, you can adjust the angle as well as the up and down.
Once you have it all adjusted, snug the two nuts down on each allen bolt to
prevent further movement. The large bolt that goes through the holes you drill
in the sheet metal, along with the chamfer-headed screws that go into the
housing and sit flush against the bracket face would appear to "lock"
the solid block in place once you've made the adjustments with the allen bolts.
Things to Look For
- Keep an eye on how much you have to move allen bolts that are next to each
other - if you have to move one a lot and the other a little, they get out of
parallel and both will "lock" - you won't be able to adjust them any
further due to binding. This means your initial setup is off by too much. Start
over by making the allen bolts as equal as possible, then make an adjustment to
the rail assembly holder bolts to get the whole setup closer to the final
destination, then re-adjust the allen bolts.
- The chamfer headed bolts are much longer than they need to be - so much so
that a standard socket won't reach the nut when you go to tighten them down. If
you have deep-hole sockets, great, otherwise I hope your "feel" is
good, because you won't be able to see what you're doing on the left hand side
- It's difficult to reach through the opening in the sheet metal and get to
the interior nuts on the left side - you'll need a few ratchet extensions hooked
together so that the ratchet wrench sticks out the opening. I found socking
everything down moved everything by .001" or so, so you may need to
compensate accordingly if you care about this.
Have patience, email me or call
Laguna if you get stuck.